Jaipur, Vibrant Capital Of Rajasthan

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Aline Dobbie relives her trip to Jaipur, where she stayed at some lovely hotels, saw the sights of Jaipur, shopped, rode an elephant and attended a wedding.

Jaipur – the pink city to which I returned in February has seen huge progress with the pink restoration much in evidence and huge new roads and a new international airport – though we arrived from Delhi on the Shatabdi Express, which was both efficient and inexpensive.

The sumptuous swimming pool at Samode Haveli

The sumptuous swimming pool at Samode Haveli

We stayed at the Samode Haveli which was a delight, but we also spent time at Loharu House the private home of the Loharu noble family and then at Alsisar Haveli which is similar – each few days was enjoyable and it is a question of budget influencing your choice. Naturally time must be spent at sumptuous Rambagh Palace built by Maharajah Jai Sing II for his third wife Gayatri Devi, the legendary late maharani who died in 2009. We ate a light meal in the Polo Bar on a Sunday evening and watched the sunset and the peacocks call, followed by some stupendous fireworks.

Snake charmers, always intriguing

Alsisar Haveli

Alsisar Haveli

Loharu House

Loharu House

Rambagh Palace hotel

Rambagh Palace hotel

Whether you wish to visit the City Palace and then the Amer Palace – both of which are essential if you have not previously been and then a museum or two, or concentrate on shopping, there is plenty to provide enjoyment. We did return to the Jantar Mantar the great astronomical observatory which is looking so good and now a world heritage site; we then followed up with a visit to the City Palace where I consider more work needs to be done to achieve impressive status.

Hawa Mahal, the palace of winds

Hawa Mahal, the palace of winds

Amer Palace

Amer Palace

Jantar Mantar, a centuries-old astronomical marvel

Jantar Mantar, a centuries-old astronomical marvel

One morning we drove to Dera Amer for an elephant ride and a most delicious lunch at this farm just outside the city; the owner Udaijit Singh is a keen birder and loves his rustic semi-desert farm with elephants, camels, cattle and abundant bird life. From time to time elephant polo is played on the polo lawn here and people are invited to come and just enjoy elephants and their environs. The elephants…well what can I say…I first rode an elephant at six weeks old, so for me it is an essential of being back in India…land of my birth.

One of the elephants at Dera Amer

One of the elephants at Dera Amer

A delicious lunch after the elephant ride

A delicious lunch after the elephant ride

Shopping….the pretty block print fabrics, blue pottery, handmade paper, all forms of ornaments and antiques and of course jewellery….Jaipur is the home of jewels, but beware of cons. I once had a necklace made satisfactorily for a daughter-in-law and chose the pearls and garnets myself. I enjoyed the shop Ridhi Sidhi Textiles which is quite close to Samode Haveli and the handmade paper factory was a revelation as was the blue pottery cottage industry–I just adore the blue and white–it is so iconic of Jaipur.

Lac souviners

Lac souviners

Bangles made of lac, are typical of Rajasthan

Bangles made of lac, are typical of Rajasthan

Handmade paper in gorgeous colours

Handmade paper in gorgeous colours

The hand-made blue pottery of Jaipur, another icon

The hand-made blue pottery of Jaipur, another icon

Be sure to allow yourself time to rest, relax, have a swim or a massage and a good dinner; the pressure of city traffic can become a bit much and then a good cup of tea or something stronger makes for a pleasant evening. I enjoyed watching the sunset from the Lakshmi Narayan temple one evening followed by a stupendous Indian wedding!

Laxmi Narayan temple

Laxmi Narayan temple

The marigold-bedecked entrance to the wedding at Loharu House

The marigold-bedecked entrance to the wedding at Loharu House

Guests at the wedding party

Guests at the wedding party

Desserts at the wedding

A variety of traditional digestives and after-dinner mouth-fresheners

 

About the Author

Aline Dobbie was born and brought up in India and lived there till nearly 17.  She considers the country her second home –  the land of her birth.  She returns to India annually but lives in Scotland with her husband Graham; they have two adult sons who have families of their own.  Aline enjoys her five grandchildren.  Her books are India: The Peacock’s Call about northern India, India: The Tiger’s Roar about central India and the great wildlife parks, and India: The Elephant’s Blessing about southern India.  Quicklook at India is a précis of India to help business people and readers in a hurry to absorb the important salient facts on India – all are in e-book form as well.  http://www.thepeacockscall.co.uk.

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